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Traversing Sudan, Conde Nast Traveller’s Stanley Stewart encounters people who seemed to reflect their environment well: a desert Nomad with ancient and weathered skin; a colossal matriarch of Old Dongola with gold teeth; and a camel herder, determined to palm off his ‘beauty’ of a camel for 20,000 Sudanese pounds. He declares he came in search of the desert and found people in its stead.