For us, Sarara is one of the most exciting camps in Kenya today. Located in northern Kenya, in the southern end of the Matthews Mountains, on Namunyak, a 185,000 acre community ranch, it is one of the leading examples of how eco-tourism and sustainable land practices can help kick-start a revival in animal populations, and so begin to regenerate the local environment.
With much of the work led by Lewa’s Iain Graig, and by the camp’s present manager, Piers Bastard, the area, which in 1996 recorded no elephant, is now home to several thousand elephant, and, consequently, to a rich variety of animals. The knock-on effects have been unremittingly good. The local Samburu are once again re-engaged in digging singing wells (see below), in projects that directly affect their well-being, and in the daily running of Sarara.
A mixed material build – canvas, wood, thatch and stone -the camp itself consists of 5 luxury tents and a main lodge. Shared areas include a seating area, dining room, bar and natural swimming pool. The main lodge is open, clear and welcoming.
food and service
The food is delicious – we advise sampling the scrambled eggs, which are cooked to perfection – while the service is friendly and efficient.
Each sleeping tent has a private veranda, a large bedroom, and a changing area to the rear. Bathrooms are not en suite, but are built to one side out of imaginatively crafted wooden beams. Hot water is brought in buckets, and hoisted into the trees above. The whole feel of the place is one of function, and of gently tweaking nature: luxuries are to be found in the bed linen, in the beautiful throws, the colourful cushions, and in how objects – both useful and decorative – accentuate the beauty of Sarara’s immediate environment.
Activities at Sarara include wildlife drives, guided walks, cultural visits, elephant watches, donkey hikes, fly camping, bush picnics and forest treks.
Singing Wells: The practice of digging singing wells in the dry river beds to water their cattle has been a local tradition for as long as anyone can remember. The Samburu form human chains into the well and each family will sing its own unique song. Once the well is ready, the livestock run directly to the well of their owners, whose songs they recognise. Afterwards, the elephants move in and invariably trash the wells. The Samburu have to rebuild the wells on an almost daily basis, but recognise this as an important part of the commitment to the wildlife on Namunyak.
The camp is powered by solar energy generated by several sets of solar panels. Fresh food is not kept in a refrigerator, but in a specially designed charcoal store. Twice a day the charcoal is soaked with water and evaporation keeps food at cellar temperatures. Bottles, glass, plastic and tins are all removed from Sarara and recycled.
Between 1977 and 1995 over 30,000 elephant and rhino were killed by poachers and with all the elephants gone, the Grevy zebras and reticulated giraffe went too. Set up in 1995, the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust was established to bring peace to this troubled region.
Working with the indigenous Samburu people, the trust has changed attitudes of the local communities towards wildlife and, most importantly, made the area safe from poachers. Now 4,000 elephants have returned to the Mathews range. And where there are elephants, the other animals know it is safe to go and they too are coming home.
Northern Rangelands Trust aim to ensure the conservation and sustainable use of natural resources within the Trust area while alleviating poverty of the inhabitants of the region, through job creation and livelihood diversification.
The Tusk Trust was established in response to an urgent need to halt the decline in Africa’s natural heritage and find a way to combine the interests of people and wildlife alike, by protecting wildlife, supporting communities and promoting education.