Classic, Rare | Eritrea

Adventures by water

In light of a sprawlingly fascinating conversation with yacht consultant and captain Sean Meagher, Will Jones shares three water-based experiences, from a stripped-back, spartan-like trip to Eritrea’s Dahlak Archipelago to commissioning a traditional dhow off the coast of Lamu to chartering a 162-foot yacht into eastern Africa’s Indian Ocean. 

As you’d expect, much of what we do by way of designing trips is land-based. The terrains we operate in range from the deserts of Chad or Namibia to the savannas of eastern and southern Africa to the highlands and mountains of northern Ethiopia and South Sudan to the rainforests of the Republic of Congo. Water, of course, is vital to all of these; their rains, rivers, and lakes their lifeblood, the complexity of local and global weather systems the paint brushes, so to speak, that create, give rhythm to, and maintain them. Whether fishing for goliath tigerfish on the Chinko River in the Central African Republic, swimming in Lake Tanganyika off Mahale Mountains, relaxing in an Infinity pool, viewing the interaction between predator and prey around a dry season water source, or enjoying any number of activities in Walker Bay along the coast from Cape Town, water is significant to the experience of travelling to Africa. However, it is not generally the experience, which is why I thought we’d flip the switch three times in the name of all you water-lovers out there. Let’s go.

Sailing the (red) seas of Eritrea

When Eritrea ended a 30-year-old war with neighbouring Ethiopia in 2018, I visited with my eldest son, his friend, and Journeys by Design’s very own Frankie McCarthy, ostensibly in preparation for plans to begin telling its story and send guests there, but also to fulfil a personal and longheld dream to visit a country that had in all the time I’d lived and worked in the Horn of Africa been terra non grata. Part of the trip saw us explore the Dahlak Archipelago, a collection of 120 islands 645 miles long, home to some of the world’s most intact coral reefs, and still relatively unvisited. It was just a day trip, but so full of promise that at the first opportunity I got, I took the Financial Times’s Catherine Fairweather and her partner, the photographer Don McCullin, there. Pushing off from Massawa in an old fishing boat, hosted by a team consisting of the skipper, a cook, and the camp manager, and trading fresh fruit for kingfish with passing fishermen, we spent three glorious days sailing the seas, camped on deserted islands, swimming and snorkelling some of the most genuinely pristine waters I’ve ever seen. A spartan adventure of the highest order.  

Old school family affair

If the experience of island hopping in Eritrea’s Dahlak Archipelago whets the most spartan of appetites, then chartering a traditional dhow off Kenya’s Lamu Archipelago will appeal to those of us who enjoy a mix of old-school sailing and private family-oriented comfort. I’ve always been a fan of the Tusitiri Dhow, a longtime benchmark for the authentically luxurious dhow experience, and captained by Mia Mij, an old friend. Equally, there’s the reconditioned (for ‘ocean exploration’) 75-foot dhow NaiSabah, which, as well as delivering on a life spent relaxing and playing on the water, also designs ‘donor journeys’, where all profits are donated to marine and community-based conservation initiatives. Both are booked exclusively and can be chartered for all kinds of trips, providing guests with the opportunity to scuba, fish, swim, and access parts of Lamu and Kenya’s main coast that few ever visit. Combines beautifully with the likes of Anna Trzebinski’s Jannah Lamu or Lars and Carol Korschen’s Peponi Hotel.             

All-in luxury charter

And if having the opportunity to charter your entire trip off the coast of eastern Africa sounds just the ticket, then I was recently interviewed about different options for exactly this by Worth Avenue Yachts’ highly entertaining and highly well-travelled yacht consultant and captain Sean Meagher. Whether it’s off Mozambique, Tanzania, or Kenya, using something like the 162-foot luxury explorer yacht Asteria as base and its helicopter as vehicle for exploring the likes of Gorongosa National Park, Mahale Mountains, or the Masaai Mara properly flips the land-water switch, with the majority of the journey spent at sea and the minority visiting some of mainland Africa’s most extraordinary wildernesses. Alternatively, and I wish we had discussed it at greater length, I can’t think of a more luxe-adventure than chartering the boat to Madagascar, anchoring off somewhere like Voaara Madagascar and exploring the island, taking particular care to visit Masaola Peninsula’s excellent Masoala Forest Lodge, which has a helipad and serves as fine base from which to explore the area’s largest remaining lowland rainforest and national park, not to mention enjoying everything the ocean has to offer, which at certain times of the year includes viewing humpback whale.                    

If you’d like to explore these or any other water-based experiences, then please get in touch with Will Jones or the rest of the Exploration Team. We’d love to chat. 

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